Italy: Ostuni, Cielo Restaurant

I walked up to the stone archway within the hotel of La Sommita, the Relais & Chateaux property that I was staying at for a couple of nights. I was greeted by the front desk agent who smiled and said “Buona sera Mrs. Ebner.” Simultaneously I heard footsteps behind me and it’s the restaurant manager- Tomasso. We had met the night before, when he was delivering my in room dining order. Which was the most wonderful charcuterie plate with salami and formaggi and a basket of freshly baked bread. I could have hugged him, but at the time I was in a robe and I had just stepped out of the shower aka I was sporting the drowned rat look. I don’t know what’s worse, he saw me hanging out in my robe with no make up or that he recognized me all dressed up and I still looked the same to him haha!

I was in the dining room following closely behind Tomasso as he escorted me to my seat- for one. They cleared the spot for the second person and I heard him whisper to the server that I’d be by myself. The dining room was quiet, only one other table was occupied by a group of 4, which sounded to me like Americans. Tomasso reappeared handed me the menu, explaining the different tasting menu options that were available and then left me to consider my options. On the first page you could see “Acqua e Fuoco”, Water and Fire. As I read on I saw that water was focused on different fish plates and fire was all about meat. I’m still an amateur and not so adventurous when it comes to trying different types of fish, so I went right for the Fuoco menu. Tomasso was back to see if I had any questions and then asked if I would like the 10, 12 or 14 courses.

Food lovers, art lovers, creative minds who appreciate a good show- travel to the south of Italy, don’t eat for a day before this meal and entertain yourself and your palate with a night at the Cielo Restaurant. Please read on….

Silly me had not realized that the chef would also send out an introduction to the meal, some light appetizers to begin the night. A teaser of what was to come, if you will. Each bite sized appetizer (a total of 6 different pieces of food), arrived all at once, but each piece was being showcased on something different. For example, one was on a spoon, one was on a short board of wood, one was on a cage like piece of metal, one on a type of spiky branch and another on a coaster looking round cut from a tree. I was distracted and taking in every single detail, wishing I had brought my camera, but also wondering if I would have been brave enough to whip it out to take photos of every course. For those wondering- probably not. I already felt embarrassed taking out my phone to take photos and short videos, but I had to share this! I had to show my foodie friends about this experience.

Food brings out all kinds of feelings and even sometimes brings back memories, but this was something I felt was truly special. The next level when it comes to a dining experience. Absolutely a wonderful night to remember and something that will take some time to find anything in comparison. Have you ever experienced something like that?

I wish I had sat there journaling about each dish, or each wine that I was served. That’s how inspired I felt. The service was top notch and I had quickly forgotten that I was dining alone since I was so captivated by what was happening around me. The wines were spectacular, each selected with care. There wasn’t a thing that I could change about this meal, other than that feeling that I was getting full, but I can’t remember which course that was. There is one thing that I can remember very distinctly and that was that they brought me a piece of bread for EVERY dish. They brought this at the beginning and told me what each one was, because they couldn’t possibly give you the same type of bread with everything, could they?! I was living a carb lovers dream. This was it, game over, what could top the night?

Dessert is something I rarely partake in. I’d much prefer an espresso and an amaro to end a meal. Though this was part of the tasting menu and as full as I was, I couldn’t wait to see what they brought out! Tomasso came out with what looked like a cup of flour that had been dumped onto a plate and a mischievous smile on his face. What fun it must be to work in an environment like this, serving out of the ordinary, spectacular and elevated food. People’s reactions, much like mine must have been, must be so amusing! He set the plate down and then the second server just behind him, handed him a plastic egg carton. Both men look at me and Tomasso explains to me in Italian- I’m sorry, but the chef has left for the night, so you must prepare your dessert on your own. He opens the egg carton and asks me to take out the egg and to crack this over the flour, which I’ll then need to stir together.

Unfortunately it’s not what is pictured above, I don’t have any photos of this genius creation by the chef Andrea Cannalire. Which I later found out was called “Uova e Farina”. A simple description for a dessert that was anything but! Once you crack open the so called egg that you are handed and spill it’s beautiful cream all over the so called flour, you stir and make your very own version of a Crema Catalana. Coming from the girl that still bakes boxed brownies at home: this is why we eat out. This is the purpose that we travel, that we explore new lands, new cultures and restaurants. We stumble upon meals like this, that we can’t wait to tell our loved ones about. That we dream of and hope to one day return to.

So La Sommita, will you please have me for dinner again, because I’d love to be a guest at your hotel and at your restaurant in the very near future. My stay was flawless and a special memory that I cherish. Thank you from the bottom of my heart, for having a wonderful staff, a well cared for and historic property turned into a hotel. It’s all there for us to enjoy, in the charming hilltop town of Ostuni, Italy. Grazie di cuore!

Traveling Luxuriously

There may be a definition for luxury in the dictionary, but there is no real definition for luxury travel. At least not from how I see it and how you may see it.

lux·u·ry /ˈləkSH(ə)rē/ noun

1. the state of great comfort and extravagant living.

Do you see what I’m getting at? What DOES that mean? Your comforts and my comforts are in fact completely different and our expectation of our stay at a hotel will also be very different. So what do you expect from your stay at a hotel and the inclusions that come with where you lay your head at night? Something beyond the necessities, what could they be?

Luxury. It’s actually a word that I’ve grown tired of, just like the word “boutique” or “authentic” and even “foodie!” They now feel overused and underwhelming. Luxury, isn’t a description that I can work with when people are trying to describe their ideal holiday. Or as I hear pretty often “we don’t need something really luxurious.” Yes, even my millionaire clients say this to me. It’s my job to break down what they mean by that. Luxury can also be assumed to feel stuffy, super high end, white glove kind of service. When in fact there is also something out there in the world called barefoot luxury, which makes me giggle, but I can understand it, since I’ve experienced it at several properties.

Do me a favor and google "Luxury hotels in Rome”. You will be surprised by what pops up. Hint: not all hotels are luxury! Every hotel wants to market their property to the best that they can, so in their description on their website, they may state that you will have a luxurious stay at their property in one of their luxury rooms. You’re already feeling relaxed or intrigued, am I right? When in fact they are a hotel in a sad area of town and they haven’t updated their linens in over 25 years. That’s not screaming luxury to me, but how would you know those details without working with an advisor that knows their properties that they work with? Words mean nothing, that just happens to be a good marketing scheme, using words that draw people in!

When I break it down with clients, I can hear from each traveler what they have in mind for their own type of luxury. A lot of couples aren’t on the same page about this, but someone will usually take the lead and the other will agree with their spouse for the sake of their comfort. Some people even say, I’d love to have breakfast included in our stay or the option to have in room dining. Others say- I’d love to have a Sea View Room. The travel partner may disagree and say, “the room isn’t as important to me, as to what I’m doing while in the destination.” Real luxury for some, is a special experience, such as a private guide or private cooking class.

In the time that I started writing this post and I’ve stopped to check my inbox, I have two new emails. One from a hotel and one is a tour company and in the subject line, low and behold there is our infamous word “luxury.”

As an example, I’d like to share what I have come to find as a luxury when traveling. True luxury is the service that I receive when staying somewhere. I like to be greeted, acknowledged, asked how my stay is, if the staff can assist with anything, if I need directions in the city while I’m visiting. I want to know that whoever is running the show, is taking care of each guest. I don’t want to feel like just another person checking into their hotel. From the moment I arrive, my first impression with the staff is what I’m going to get excited about. They will be setting the tone for my stay. If I’m arriving in a hot destination, a cold towel to wipe my hands with and then a refreshing welcome drink to sip on during my check in. Someone has already grabbed my checked luggage from the back of the taxi or transfer and they are already arranging for my luggage to be delivered to my room for me. You guys, that is my luxury.

Then something else that I’m a sucker for, is turn down service. It’s the silliest of things, but after a long day of being out and about, when I open the door to my room and I catch a glimpse of a soft glow from my bedside lamp…that is so appealing. I step further into the room and see the blinds have been pulled down, my pillows set up differently, the corner of the blankets on the bed are pulled back slightly, slippers next to the bedside and a fresh bottle of water with a glass are on my nightstand. The extra mile is when there is a note, addressed to me, with the weather or the schedule for the next day.

This isn’t how I always travel and I don’t expect that at every hotel, but this level of service is my luxury!

Think about your luxury; your expectations while traveling. A detail that is significant enough to be memorable for you and this particular trip. These are fine points that I like to discuss with clients.

Travel with a purpose and I’ll select your hotels, your tours and your guides with careful consideration.

Language Barriers- a beautiful misunderstanding

Let’s talk about language barriers! When clients discuss potential trips with me, may it be Italy, Mexico or Thailand, most people ask a similar question: “Do I need to learn the local language?” or they will mention, “I’m nervous about finding my way around, will people speak English?” The best answer that I have…is to not expect everyone to speak English. After all, you’re the one visiting their country, right?

If we all stayed home and worried about not being able to speak to each other, we’d never even start to try and understand each others cultures. Which should be a major reason that we travel to new and exciting places- leaving behind our own world and all of the comforts that come along with it. Languages for me are a big, wonderful insight to a foreign destination. I try my hardest to learn at least a greeting, how to thank someone and how to bid someone farewell. I find it’s always best to first learn the “formal” way for each of these, then you can learn the slang- which will definitely give the locals a laugh!

People are very appreciative and will respond with kindness when you try to speak their language. It’s not about perfecting the accent. Just be present, try and connect with the people in the destination that you’re visiting. It’s a rewarding experience that I’m sure you will treasure when you think about your trip. When I mention to people that I lived in Italy, most people will ask what level my Italian was. Pizza, pasta, ciao bella and grazie, were basically the extent of “my Italian.” However, languages have never been something that I’ve thought to be intimidating. I was/am curious and love hearing people speak languages, watching their gestures and hearing the different tones. I remember wanting to learn Spanish after my first visit to Mexico at the young age of 11. I wanted to be able to order with confidence, to ask questions and honestly, I’m a chatty Kathy. Good conversation makes me happy. It’s something I crave. So when I’m adventuring, I want to connect with the people there.

I’m here in China now and thank goodness for the fabulous guides that I’ve had or I would seriously be missing out on some things that I’ve needed assistance or more explanations with. I won’t say that even though you try, it will come easy. Funny enough on this trip, I had a problem in my room one night, my bathroom light wouldn’t turn off. I called down to the front desk and the lady thought I was asking for laundry service. I took a deep breath, tried to phrase things differently and then more simply said things like “housekeeping”, hoping they would send someone up and I could show them what’s happening. I can’t say that it’s always been easy getting by, but I certainly have a LOT of stories that I look back on and can laugh whole heartedly. I’ve most definitely learned to not say something if you’re not completely sure of what it means hahah. I’ll leave that to your imagination.

So be patient while traveling, be open to learning phrases in other languages and be kind to people if they don’t understand you. Getting frustrated won’t get you anywhere, but a smile, some practice and some courage can get you far!

Pro tip: if you’re looking for someone to help you with directions, you may want to look for someone that is a bit younger. Those are the generations that are learning other languages and probably have studied a little of English in school.

In my next blog post, I’m going to point out some ways that you can be a better communicator while traveling abroad. I’ve never thought of writing something like this, because it seems silly, but there are very silly things out there on the internet. Hopefully this will be helpful to someone!